旅途中的驚喜總藏在街巷深處。我在海南陵水黎族自治縣采風(fēng)，本是為記錄疍家漁歌，卻在碼頭邊遇見了那碗讓舌尖震顫的酸粉。當(dāng)海風(fēng)卷著椰香掠過竹簾，那碗紅白相間的酸辣湯汁，仿佛專為消解暑氣而來，連相機(jī)鏡頭都染上了饞意。

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陵水酸粉 視覺中國 圖

陵水酸粉的粉，不同于普通河粉的軟糯，它帶著發(fā)酵后的微酸筋骨。據(jù)傳，最初的陵水酸粉起源于清末安馬村一位胡姓男子之手，他將發(fā)酵大米制成米粉，賦予其獨(dú)特酸香。如今，制作工藝雖已部分機(jī)械化，但傳統(tǒng)手工粉仍備受推崇——清晨頭茬新米經(jīng)山泉浸泡三日，待米香透出果酸，再以石磨碾成米漿，蒸汽繚繞中米漿化作晶瑩粉條，在竹匾上晾成彎月弧度。這樣的粉條入口彈牙帶脆，似咬碎一汪清泉。

老碼頭的阿婆是做酸粉的好手。她的攤位支在百年古榕樹下，竹筐里碼著薄如蟬翼的牛肉干、琥珀色的沙蟲干，炸得金黃的花生與翠綠的香菜相映成趣。阿婆舀起一勺豬骨螺湯，湯色乳白如瓊漿，酸中透著螺肉鮮甜。她跟我說：“這湯頭啊，得精心熬夠三個(gè)時(shí)辰，讓海風(fēng)把那股子鮮味全都吸進(jìn)去才行?！?/p>

那日我蹲在攤位前，看阿婆行云流水地調(diào)配料：酸粉打底，鋪牛肉干、沙蟲干，撒花生、香菜，最后澆上一勺黃燈籠椒醬。紅亮湯汁在碗中綻開，酸味如海浪撲面而來。阿婆遞來一雙竹柄尚帶微溫的筷子，熱情說道：“小哥，快嘗嘗，這沙蟲干可是我家阿公趕海辛苦撿來的，足足曬了七七四十九天呢?！?/p>

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汪曾祺先生曾言，“將生活嚼得有滋有味，把日子過得活色生香，靠的不只是嘴巴，還要有一顆浸透人間煙火的心”。陵水酸粉的煙火氣，藏在阿婆布滿老繭的手掌里，在椰殼碗碰撞的叮當(dāng)聲中，在每個(gè)清晨碼頭的漁火里。若先生嘗過這酸辣交織的滋味，定會(huì)在《四方食事》里添上一筆。