大家好,我是傻姐美食,我媽昨天又上演了一出"鄉(xiāng)下土特產(chǎn)大遷徙",門一開差點沒把我嚇個跟頭——兩麻袋青菜搖搖晃晃扛在肩頭,左手提溜著沾著泥土的野菜筐,右手還攥著現(xiàn)摘的草莓,香甜味撲鼻。后面跟著的老爸更夸張,活像移動的農(nóng)貿(mào)市場,花生油桶在咯吱窩底下晃蕩,裝土雞蛋的紙箱用褲腰帶捆在腰上,最絕的是脖子上還掛著個裝煎餅的布口袋,活脫脫像掛了個炸藥包。

"城里菜哪有咱家地里水靈!"老太太抹著汗往地板上卸貨,我蹲在地上扒拉野菜筐,突然被一把細(xì)如鋼針的綠葉子扎得縮回手。嚯!這不是小時候漫山遍野的豬毛菜嘛?油亮亮的葉片支棱著,活像給土地爺梳頭的綠刷子。

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要說這豬毛菜真是命苦,明明長得水靈,偏生攤上個土得掉渣的名字。前年我發(fā)朋友圈曬涼拌豬毛菜,評論區(qū)炸出一堆問號:"這菜聽著像豬飼料?""豬毛能吃?"得虧我及時甩出高清大圖,要不人家真以為我在搞行為藝術(shù)。

可老家人都把它當(dāng)個寶,春雨剛潤透黃土地,大姑娘小媳婦就拎著竹籃往野坡上鉆。指甲蓋掐著嫩芽尖,帶露水的葉子蹭得褲腿濕漉漉也不在意。這菜性子野得很,越是貧瘠的沙土地,越是長得歡實,一叢叢支棱在風(fēng)里,倒真有幾分豬鬃的倔強(qiáng)勁兒。

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記得小時候跟奶奶去挖野菜,她總說豬毛菜是老天爺賞的救命糧。鬧饑荒那年月,這不起眼的野菜救活過半個村的人。現(xiàn)在日子好了,反倒成了稀罕物,城里人想買都得碰運氣,超市貨架上可尋不著它的蹤影。要說這菜最妙的吃法,還得是涼拌。別被它扎手的模樣唬住,處理起來可比薺菜省心多了。

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【涼拌豬毛菜】所需食材:豬毛菜、大蒜、小米椒、鹽、醬油、香油

1、剛摘回來的豬毛菜得先過三關(guān):

https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150070591830
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150062465064
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150162866280
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150137963243
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150045425958
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150162866195
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150058271257
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150041493852
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150033105032
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150163128608
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150075048063
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150150545602
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150091825158
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150087368964
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150083437223
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150091563316
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150033105199
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150104408709
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150003745034
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149999288590
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149999551117
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150012133686
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149995356311
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149982773386
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149986705588
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149995094344
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149991162163
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149986967949
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149982773497
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149982773529
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149970190617
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149969928446
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160150074786234
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149961539696
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149982773308
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149907013648
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149928247323
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149903081855
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149894430966
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149924053543
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149932179680
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149882109965
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149890236736
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149886042169
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149890236436
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149861138483
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149978579152
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149894430797
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149831516614
https://weibo.com/ttarticle/p/show?id=2309405160149903081636

摘要快準(zhǔn)狠:拇指食指捏住莖稈,從下往上一捋,老莖黃葉自動脫落,剩下的全是翡翠似的嫩尖尖

洗菜要蕩秋千:裝滿清水的搪瓷盆里,抓著菜梗上下蕩個七八回,藏在針葉里的細(xì)沙全沉底

焯水要掐著表:滾水里打個滾就撈,多燙兩秒就成爛糊菜

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2、蒜末得用刀背拍碎了再剁,

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上桌時白瓷盤襯著碧玉菜,紅椒圈像撒落的瑪瑙珠子。夾一筷子送進(jìn)嘴,先是小米椒的鮮辣撞上舌尖,接著蒜香混著香油在齒間炸開,最后是豬毛菜特有的脆勁兒,嚼起來咯吱咯吱響,比吃嫩黃瓜還帶感。

看我端著涼拌菜上桌,老媽筷子還沒伸就先嘆氣:"現(xiàn)在年輕人哪認(rèn)得這些野菜喲..."話沒說完就被我爸搶白:"就你操心!閨女這不拌得挺像樣?"老兩口斗著嘴,手上倒是默契,你夾一筷子我舀一勺,轉(zhuǎn)眼盤子見了底。

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如今這些野菜早不是救命糧,倒成了連接兩代人的味覺密碼。每次嚼著脆生生的豬毛菜,總覺得嚼碎了那些說不出口的牽掛——老媽總嫌城里菜沒"地氣",其實是怕鋼筋水泥隔斷了那份土生土長的牽掛吧?

這帶著泥土味的野菜啊,名字再土氣,也是老家捎來的情書。哪天要是菜市場真改名叫"超市",老媽怕是得把整塊自留地都搬進(jìn)城來。