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春夏秋冬，四季輪回，每一季都有不可辜負(fù)的天賜珍饈。"媽媽快看！樹(shù)上長(zhǎng)滿小扇子啦！"上周末帶孩子去公園，小家伙指著路邊的梧桐興奮得直蹦跶。抬頭望見(jiàn)陽(yáng)光從新綠的葉縫里漏下來(lái)，突然意識(shí)到五月真的要來(lái)了——辦公室的姑娘早換上了碎花裙，外賣(mài)小哥的冰袖在陽(yáng)光下白得晃眼，連菜場(chǎng)里都飄起了涼皮攤子的麻醬香。

要說(shuō)這個(gè)時(shí)節(jié)我家餐桌上最搶手的，還得數(shù)空心菜。昨天傍晚去菜場(chǎng)，碰見(jiàn)隔壁樓的王奶奶蹲在菜筐前挑揀，碧綠的菜葉在塑料筐里堆成小山。"現(xiàn)在的

說(shuō)到空心菜最經(jīng)典的吃法，我們家三代人都認(rèn)準(zhǔn)清炒。記得奶奶總說(shuō)"熱鍋涼油保翠綠"，這話我試了二十年從沒(méi)翻車(chē)。鐵鍋燒得微微冒青煙，倒上花生油轉(zhuǎn)兩圈潤(rùn)鍋，等油溫降下來(lái)再下料——這分寸拿捏得像老茶客泡茶，多一秒少一瞬都不是那個(gè)味兒。

【清炒空心菜】所需食材：空心菜、大蒜、生姜、蠔油、雞精、醬油、植物油、鹽

具體做法：1、挑菜要選桿細(xì)葉小的，粗桿子容易老。擇菜時(shí)別用指甲掐，拇指食指捏住菜桿輕輕一折，"咔嚓"聲清脆的準(zhǔn)保嫩。我家小子最愛(ài)干這活兒，說(shuō)是像在給蔬菜做體檢，合格的才能下鍋。

2、蒜末姜末要現(xiàn)剁的才夠香，千萬(wàn)別用壓蒜器。上個(gè)月貪方便用了料理機(jī)，結(jié)果炒出來(lái)的蒜香差點(diǎn)意思，被老媽念叨了三天。熱油里先撒點(diǎn)鹽再下料頭，滋啦一聲激發(fā)的香氣能躥到客廳。

3、菜下鍋前記得甩干水，不然就成水煮菜了。猛火快炒時(shí)得學(xué)大排檔師傅顛勺的架勢(shì)，左手扶鍋右手拿鏟，菜葉子在空中翻個(gè)跟頭，裹著油光落回鍋里。這時(shí)候千萬(wàn)別接電話，晚關(guān)火十秒脆勁就沒(méi)了。

我們家調(diào)味的黃金組合是蠔油+味達(dá)美+幾粒雞精，沿著鍋邊淋下去最入味。上次用生抽代替味達(dá)美試過(guò)，鮮味倒是夠，就是少了點(diǎn)復(fù)合香氣。出鍋前沿著鍋邊滴兩滴香油，香味能再提一個(gè)檔次。

其實(shí)這菜可塑性極強(qiáng)，上周突發(fā)奇想試了新吃法。某天火鍋剩了半碟肥牛，切碎了和空心菜桿同炒，竟吃出茶餐廳的鑊氣。昨天把菜葉裹上面糊炸成天婦羅，蘸著泰式甜辣醬，熊孩子吃得手指頭都嗦干凈。

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要說(shuō)最絕的還得數(shù)剩菜改造。前天沒(méi)吃完的菜桿別扔，泡在玻璃罐里做成酸嘢，加點(diǎn)小米辣和冰糖，擱冰箱腌一夜。今早夾出來(lái)配白粥，酸辣爽脆瞬間喚醒瞌睡蟲(chóng)，比韓式泡菜還帶勁。

常覺(jué)得空心菜像極了咱們普通人的日子，看著平平無(wú)奇，用心拾掇照樣活色生香。昨兒在廚房忙活時(shí)，五歲的女兒突然冒出來(lái)："媽媽炒菜好像在跳舞！"可不是么，熱鍋冷油的講究像極了待人接物的分寸，猛火快炒的果斷好比職場(chǎng)殺伐決斷，最后那勺畫(huà)龍點(diǎn)睛的調(diào)味，不就是給平淡生活添點(diǎn)小驚喜？

寫(xiě)完這段正好收到老媽微信："菜場(chǎng)東頭第三家的空心菜今天特水靈，給你留了兩把。"配圖是沾著泥的菜根和老板憨厚的笑臉。忽然想起小時(shí)候蹲在灶臺(tái)邊，看奶奶把普通的綠葉菜炒出滿屋香氣的那些傍晚?；蛟S所謂家的味道，就是把每個(gè)尋常食材都鄭重對(duì)待的心意吧。

眼看著窗外晚霞染紅了半邊天，廚房飄來(lái)蒜香。起身系圍裙時(shí)想：今晚的炒空心菜，要不要試試加勺豆豉鯪魚(yú)呢？